Mercury Free!

"High protein! Low fat!" That's some of the ad copy on my five-lb. bag of Trader Joe's Skinless, Boneless Chicken Breasts, written so shoppers will choose this five-lb. bag of skinless, boneless chicken breasts as opposed to one of the five-lb. bags of skinless, boneless chicken breasts sitting next to it.

Next to the announcement of these strange properties of chicken is "No hormones!" It made me feel relieved. And that worried me. Because if I saw "No hormones" on a box of Chips Ahoy! cookies, I wouldn't feel relieved. I'd wonder what the hell where hormones are doing in cookies in the first place. But my reaction made me realize that I've been conditioned to accept a level of crap in my food, ingredients and treatments that would shock people from a 100 years ago, and likely people a 100 years from now, in the same way the old practice of using mercury in everything from medicine to lead paint shocks us.

It turns out that "No hormones!" is as silly of a claim for chicken as "Low fat!" The USDA bans hormones from being used in raising hogs or poultry, and requires manufactures that put "No hormones!" on the packaging to also put "Federal regulations prohibit the use of hormones in poultry" [or pigs].

And if you're not yet convinced I need to leave the house more often, after I read this on the USDA's web site, and mused about the interplay of all these messages while eating a Twix bar, I wondered if all of these messages were just a way for a subversive copywriter at Trader Joe's to get people thinking along these very same lines. For if the package only had "No hormones!" on it, and the USDA disclaimer, I wouldn’t have given this a second thought. It was this message next to all these obviously silly messages that got me thinking.

Perhaps it was the copywriter pressuring management to put "No MSG!" and "Minimally processed!" on the package, each exclamation point a gentle nudge to consider why the lack of perversion of our food should make us excited. Perhaps this was his or her way to inflame the hearts of the buccaneers that patronize Trader Joe's, to light the trick birthday candle in all our hearts, the candle that lights again ever after it's blown out, unless you douse it in water, the water that melts from the frozen chicken after you put it in the refrigerator to defrost.

For the record, I was outside for 15 minutes today.